How to choose the right shirt

Respect the shirt

As a man, you should respect the shirt. A shirt is not just some sort of underwear, as it was until well into the 18th century. No, on the contrary, today the shirt is an important piece of clothing which should have a central place in each man’s wardrobe.

But which shirt should you choose? What should you pay attention to, when investing in a good shirt? There are a few classical rules of thumb, both for how a shirt should fit as well as for what to pay attention to when buying a men’s shirt. Kaufmann has collected some good advice from our expert clerks, and you would do well to read it through before buying a shirt.

The collar

When looking for the perfect shirt, the collar is the guideline for how the shirt can be used. The classic turndown collar is both discreet and formal. The space between the tips of the collar can vary, and you’d do well to buy a shirt whose collar height can be adjusted to the length of your neck. If you have a long, slim neck, you should pick a shirt with a high collar, and the opposite if your neck is short. Shirts with a turndown collar can be found from among others Polo Ralph Lauren and Sand.

If you want extra room for a thicker tie knot, the solution is a shirt with a cut-away collar, also known as a Windsor. A shirt with cut-away is somewhat more elegant than a shirt with the classic turndown collar, and it can be worn both with and without a tie. At Kaufmann you will find a wide selection of shirts with cut-away collars, for example from Allan Clark and Stenströms.

If you want a slightly more informal or sporty look, you’ll do well to pick a shirt with a button-down collar, where the tips of the collar are attached with buttons, and look for a shirt with regular fit. Have a look at our fashion shirts from Ralph Lauren and Eton if you want to find a shirt with a button-down collar that can be worn both with and without a tie.

Cuffs

The cuff, that is, the piece of fabric at the end of the sleeve, comes in two versions: link cuffs and button cuffs. The link cuff requires cufflinks and is the most elegant. Typically, it’s used for more dressed up occasions where a suit or smoking is called for. The button cuff, on the other hand, is used in other, more informal, situations. Typically, it’s buttoned closed with one or two buttons.

Note the golden rule that states that the correct sleeve length of a classic men’s shirt is when the cuff (with arms straight) reaches around one and a half centimetre below your wrist. The sleeves should be long enough that the length doesn’t change, even though you bend your arm. If you put on a jacket, one and a half centimetre is also the exact measurement for the piece of cuff that should be visible at the end of the jacket sleeve, as well as how much of the collar that should be visible above the collar of the jacket.

Shirt trends

If you should pick a striped shirt from Sand, a denim shirt from Ralph Lauren, a chequered from Eton, a classic from Stenströms or a modern from NN07 or Tiger of Sweden, is a matter of personal taste and style. At Kaufmann we always keep a wide selection of men’s shirts for all types of looks and occasions. So that you can be sure to find a shirt that’s just right for you. If you’re in doubt, stop by one of our Kaufmann stores, where you can always receive knowledgeable guidance and find inspiration for your shirt purchase.

Do you find yourself without a shirt for Christmas lunch? Should it be “same procedure as last year” with a solid colour shirt from for example Hugo Boss or Eton? Or are you looking for something with more action, such as a striped shirt from Sand? Remember that the classical rules for how a shirt should be worn does not equal stiff-necked shirt-conservatism. Create your own look through intuition and coincidences but keep the classical guidelines in the back of your mind before you throw yourself into experimentation.

Wear the tie

Even though many men’s shirts certainly can be worn without a tie, we cannot ignore that they make for a good match. Shirts and ties can be combined indefinitely, and it’s just as much a question about taste, personal style and some bravery as about set guidelines when it comes to a stylish shirt-and-tie combination.

A stark white shirt, from for example HUGO or NN07, is always thankful choice and can be combined with more or less all ties, for example ties from An Ivy or Citta di Milano. Shirts in bright colours, from for example Sand or Eton, should be controlled so they don’t steal the show. Some say that this is best done by choosing a tie in the opposite colour, while others say that you should choose a tie in the same colour as the shirt, but another tone. A striped shirt, from for example Polo Ralph Lauren or Sand, can be difficult to match with a tie, as both colour and pattern should match. Tune down the colour palette and stick to a tie in two, at most three, colours. Also note that a shirt with wide stripes works well with a tie with thinner stripes, and vice versa.

Never wear a tie with a short-sleeved shirt, ties work best with a slim-fit shirt. During the hot summer months, you can either skip the tie or make do with rolling up the shirt sleeves to your elbows. Even though it’s tempting, it’s equally bad to wear an open shirt and a loosely hanging tie. And another little thing: unbutton the top two buttons of the shirt if you’re not wearing a tie.